Suggested paddles
River Thames

Jerome tells us that it boasts a painted sign showing the saint, killing the dragon on one side, and relaxing with a pint of beer on the other. It gave me a tremendous buzz the first time I visited the pub about ten years ago to find the sign, lovingly restored, hanging in the bar. Pubs change; so far we've always felt welcome there. Anyone who's not sure can ring 0118 940 5021 and ask.

If you carry on downstream for about two miles, on your right is the entrance to the Hennerton Backwater. It’s not easy to spot: if you reach Marsh Lock, you’ve gone half a mile too far. It’s worth quoting Jerome again: “Its entrance is studded with posts and chains, and surrounded with notice boards, menacing all kinds of torture, imprisonment and death to anyone who dares set scull upon its waters – I wonder some of these riparian boors don’t claim the air of the river and threaten everyone with forty shillings fine who breathes it – but the posts and chains a little skill will easily avoid; and as for the boards, you might… throw them into the river.” Non-violent direct action, in 1889!

No obstructions these days: some things have got better. The narrow backwater passes between tranquil grass fields, then millionaires' back gardens, then through a low bridge and out on to the main river just downstream of the pub.

This also makes possible a figure-of-eight tour of around eight miles, starting at Wargrave, down the main channel of the river, up the backwater (normally very little flow), up the main channel past Wargrave and Shiplake Lock and islands, down the St Patrick's Stream and Loddon back to Wargrave.

Chris Jones

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